Master the Art of Stone Setting with Pre-Made Bezels

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Setting Stones with Pre-Made Bezels
3. Setting a Square Stone
4. Setting a Round Stone in a Tube Setting
5. Understanding Stone Anatomy
6. Choosing the Right Bezel Size
7. Making a Bezel Setting
8. Incorporating a Tube Setting into Jewelry
9. Soldering the Bezel to the Ring
10. Setting the Stone

Setting Stones with Pre-Made Bezels

Stone setting is an essential technique for metalsmithing. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced jewelry maker, learning how to set stones can take your designs to the next level. In this lesson, we will focus on using pre-made bezels to set stones.

Setting a Square Stone

Square stones can add a unique touch to your jewelry designs. When setting a square stone, it's important to ensure the stone is secure and the setting is well-crafted.

To begin, gather the necessary tools: pre-made bezels, a square stone that fits the bezel, different sizes of tubing, faceted gemstones, setting burs, a saw blade, lubricant, soldering equipment, sanding sticks and paper, polishing material, vernier calipers, a scribe tool, a bezel rocker, a needle burnisher, a setting punch with a hammer, protoblast, and a magnifier.

Start by understanding the anatomy of the stone. The flat part on top is called the table, the widest part is the girdle, and the pointed part is the collet. When setting a stone, you want the girdle to rest in a cup or bezel, with enough silver to fold over and secure the stone.

Pre-made bezels come in various shapes and sizes. They offer convenience and save time, allowing you to focus on the setting process rather than making a bezel from scratch. Make sure to choose a bezel that matches the shape and size of your stone.

To set a square stone using a pre-made bezel, you'll need to follow these steps:

1. Place the stone inside the bezel, ensuring the girdle rests on the small edge inside the bezel.
2. Use a bezel rocker to fold over the silver against the stone, starting from the corners and gradually moving to the sides.
3. Apply pressure with the bezel rocker, making sure to maintain a 45-degree angle and avoiding slippage.
4. Continue folding over the silver until the entire bezel is secure around the stone.
5. Use a needle burnisher to clean up the edges and push against the metal, avoiding contact with the stone.
6. If necessary, use 1200 grit sanding paper to smooth any rough spots.
7. Give the bezel a final polish, and your set square stone is complete.

Setting a square stone requires precision and attention to detail. Be cautious when working with the corners, as they are fragile. Remember, the thinner the silver, the easier it is to fold over, but also consider the durability of the piece.

Setting a Round Stone in a Tube Setting

Tube settings are an excellent option for setting round stones. They offer security and allow the stone to stand out in jewelry designs. In this section, we will discuss how to make a bezel setting using a piece of tubing.

To begin, gather the necessary tools: a round stone, a piece of tubing, setting burs, lubricant, saw blade, vernier calipers, and a scribe tool.

First, determine the suitable size tube for your stone. Place the stone on the tubing and ensure that it fits properly, with a bit of extra space around the stone. You want the girdle of the stone to rest on the inside of the tube while leaving enough material on the outside to fold over.

Measure the stone and the thickness of the tube to confirm the dimensions. For a 2.5mm stone, a 3mm tube with a 0.5mm allowance should suffice. It's essential to have a right-angled piece of tube for a secure setting.

Next, use a setting bur that matches the size of your stone to create a seat for the collet and girdle inside the tube. Ensure the bur is well-lubricated and level for a clean setting.

Once the tube is prepared, you can proceed with setting the stone. As always, anneal your ring before cutting and soldering to avoid tension and maintain shape. Create space on the ring for the tube by removing the soldering joint.

Attach the bezel to the ring, making sure the stone sits securely inside the tube. Use soldering paste for convenience, but be cautious as it won't prevent fire scale on larger silver surfaces.

After soldering, file away any excess material and polish the ring. Then, fold over the silver of the bezel against the stone using a bezel rocker. Ensure the table of the stone is leveled and the girdle is securely held by the folded silver.

Use a needle burnisher to clean up the edges, taking care to avoid contact with the stone. Finally, polish the bezel for a beautiful, finished appearance.

With a round stone set in a tube setting, your design will stand out with elegance and precision.